cookery · vii

anchovy butter

a small dish · ten minutes · all winter

ingredients

• 250g unsalted butter, soft
• six anchovy fillets, the salted kind, rinsed
• a clove of garlic, the smallest one in the head
• a few turns of black pepper
• juice of half a lemon, if you have it

method

1. chop the anchovies and garlic together until they are nearly a paste; you should no longer be able to count the fish.
2. fold them into the butter with the lemon and pepper, taste only once, salt almost never.
3. roll the butter in paper into a log; chill until it can be cut into rounds.

a butter that opens any vegetable you put it next to.

a round melted onto warm potatoes, or stirred into kale; lives in the larder wrapped in paper, never named.